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moroccan style
In Tangier I didn't get to see the Qasbah, and my only view of the old city was a brief walk-through after dark. But the cafe once frequented by Paul Bowles was a series of brilliant, whitewashed terraces on a cliff face high above the ocean, primitive and elegant at the same time in what I'm beginning to think of as the Moroccan style. It offers a glimpse of the old Tangier that has almost disappeared due to speculation, population pressures and modernization. The primitiveness can be offputting at first—it is a kind of test—but the elegance is always charming and more than makes up for it. I would say that it shames us for having had a negative first impression, but no Moroccan would shame anyone as far as I can see. Moroccans have a gift for making much out of little, creating oases of delight in the midst of harsh terrain. It is the opposite of ostentation, of flashy surfaces without a heart.
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location: Tangier, Morocco
date: September 5, 2003
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